The Real Rubicon

SURF REPORT

22 October 2009


When things go better sometimes there is a lot less to say. Different equipment lead to other results. Hung up the 4/3 until colder water calls for it and parked the Yater for when the waves are knee-high. The Rusty has enough paddle in it to float some 2XXL. The cut-down 2/3 wetsuit made for lighter action in the water, until a comber unzipped me and I sat back in the froth trying to get closed up before another wall rolled over me.

Pisser stayed down off the kiosk at C Street and I roamed around middle stables. Every now and then I would meet up with him and ask him what kind of bait he was using. He was sitting way out waiting on the Big Uns. The swell was forcusing more on Surfers Point than at Pipe or Stables, but there was a very good peak going off at Stables at one to two feet overhead. Then it would close before rolling into the zone where Greg had staked his claim. Three or four waves came to a set, and the crowd looked a lot worse from the parking lot than it acted in the water.

Compared to the previous day, I couldn’t recognize myself. I had two waves that were walkbacks from the shower pad and felt a lot more comfortable on the smaller, more maneuverable Rusty. When you start talking of deep on overhead surf on a 9’6”, getting down and going can be doubtful and can always be concerned about what will happen if the log gets loose.

Like my nighttime visitor said: get in shape. I need to surf a lot more if I am going to surf at the advanced age of 60. It’s the real cut off. Fifty is take it or leave it. You don’t have a real excuse. But 60 is the real Rubicon. Can’t finesse 60. All you can do is hang on to your shit and see what happens as you head toward 70.

See, 60 is 70’s neighbor. And 70 doesn’t sound like it takes many prisoners.